| Re: Problem Cockatoo(Maybe should be Smart Cockatoo) (long reply) - CLICK HERE for the Pet Manual Forum Home Page |
| John C |
"john" <john69@jwaggoner.com> wrote in message
news:BGKvc.569$861.557@fe25.usenetserver.com...
>Take one of the bolts to a hardware store and ask for "self locking" nuts.
Get enough for >all bolts. Replace the regular nuts and tighten well. These
nuts have a friction device in >them that makes them hard to remove. When
turned, the bolt turns with them.
First, sorry this reply is so long.
Self-locking nuts might not work, because if the bird's beak is strong
enough to unlock a tightened nut, a self lock nut would suffer the same
fate. They also do wear out as well. Same goes for a lock washer
arrangement. Someone also suggested locktite. However, I wouldn't use this
as it's a nasty chemical I wouldn't want my birds ingesting, even after dry
(sort of like super glue). Trouble is, if you apply too much to the bolt,
residue will accumulate on the bolt & nut and the bird may chew it.
Here are two similar suggestions I have used when working on aircraft, which
are subject to constant vibration: cotter pins & safety wire. For both, you
need a bolt with a small hole drilled near the end, and a matching
castellated nut (looks like a little castle with slots on the end). You
would tighten the nut until the hole lines up with one of the slots on the
nut, and then insert the cotter pin (or safety wire). Then the cotter pin is
spread apart at the end. My guess is that if a large bird's beak is strong
enough to undo a tightened bolt, it would also be strong enough to pull out
a cotter pin, and then you are back in the same situation. Also, there is a
danger that the bird could ingest the metal pin, which would give your bird
a very bad day; also sharp edges on the pin.
Note: Unless you have a drill press and some VERY strong tiny bits capable
of drilling thru bolts, don't attempt drilling the holes yourself. They sell
'em predrilled.
Safety wire (also called lock wire) is a little bit different. You tighten
the nut the same way, until the slots line up with the hole. Then insert a
length of wire; we used to use .032" or .044" thickness mostly. Probably
better to use the thicker wire, although if tightened too much, may be more
brittle. Then you twist the wire together and tie it off to a nearby
area--another bolt or drilled hole. You can twist the wire by hand, although
a pair of wire-twist pliers works best (they are made specifically for
that). The pliers are not cheap, however, but I use them for many different
things around the house or when working on my cars. Here's a link to show
what they look like & a typical price:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/tools1.htm
You can find a pair at a pilot/aircraft mechanic tool store near most
airports (or even easier online). Note: I just found a site where they are
only about $25:
http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/56-LP-SPLI
Not sure about the quality of these however. Seems that I paid about $75 for
mine & they have lasted me 15 yrs now of constant use.
Once the wire is twisted & attached to another bolt or hole, you give it
another set of twists about 3/4" to 1" long & then cut the excess wire off.
This "tail" is then bent inward to protect against sharp edges of the wire.
(Best if you can do this in an area the bird can't see or get to easily.)
Safety wiring takes a bit of practice however. Here's a link to show what it
looks like when it's done properly:
http://www.geocities.com/robm351/pantera/index-24.html
You can get more info on how it's done by doing a Google search or buying an
aircraft mechanic's handbook on practices & procedures (also available at
any pilot or mech. tool store).
Drawbacks of both methods (cotter pins & safety wire): sharp edges; beak may
still be strong enough to break or remove both. Note: To increase strength
of twisted wire, you can double or triple it up, but then it gets to look a
little unsightly.
If these methods don't seem to work with your bird, and locknuts or lock
tite don't do the trick either, the only thing I can suggest is spend the
money & get a stronger cage with welded joints, as opposed to bolts.
John
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| matt weber |
On Fri, 04 Jun 2004 13:18:57 GMT, "John C"
<jnsterNOSPAM@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>"john" <john69@jwaggoner.com> wrote in message
>news:BGKvc.569$861.557@fe25.usenetserver.com...
>>Take one of the bolts to a hardware store and ask for "self locking" nuts.
>Get enough for >all bolts. Replace the regular nuts and tighten well. These
>nuts have a friction device in >them that makes them hard to remove. When
>turned, the bolt turns with them.
They do work. It is more a matter of the bird gets tired. With a
normal nuts, once they get it slightly loose, the rest is easy. It
just spins right off, no real force required.
With a self locking bolt, the force required to loosen it does not
change much until the bolt is completely off. That requires more
patience than any bird of mine has had...
The self locking nut has a piece of nylon in it that isn't threaded on
the inside , and it provides enormous friction in contact with the
thread. As long as it is contact with the thread, the force to turn
the nut remains very high.
>
>First, sorry this reply is so long.
>
>Self-locking nuts might not work, because if the bird's beak is strong
>enough to unlock a tightened nut, a self lock nut would suffer the same
>fate. They also do wear out as well. Same goes for a lock washer
>arrangement. Someone also suggested locktite. However, I wouldn't use this
>as it's a nasty chemical I wouldn't want my birds ingesting, even after dry
>(sort of like super glue). Trouble is, if you apply too much to the bolt,
>residue will accumulate on the bolt & nut and the bird may chew it.
>
>Here are two similar suggestions I have used when working on aircraft, which
>are subject to constant vibration: cotter pins & safety wire. For both, you
>need a bolt with a small hole drilled near the end, and a matching
>castellated nut (looks like a little castle with slots on the end). You
>would tighten the nut until the hole lines up with one of the slots on the
>nut, and then insert the cotter pin (or safety wire). Then the cotter pin is
>spread apart at the end. My guess is that if a large bird's beak is strong
>enough to undo a tightened bolt, it would also be strong enough to pull out
>a cotter pin, and then you are back in the same situation. Also, there is a
>danger that the bird could ingest the metal pin, which would give your bird
>a very bad day; also sharp edges on the pin.
>
>Note: Unless you have a drill press and some VERY strong tiny bits capable
>of drilling thru bolts, don't attempt drilling the holes yourself. They sell
>'em predrilled.
>
>Safety wire (also called lock wire) is a little bit different. You tighten
>the nut the same way, until the slots line up with the hole. Then insert a
>length of wire; we used to use .032" or .044" thickness mostly. Probably
>better to use the thicker wire, although if tightened too much, may be more
>brittle. Then you twist the wire together and tie it off to a nearby
>area--another bolt or drilled hole. You can twist the wire by hand, although
>a pair of wire-twist pliers works best (they are made specifically for
>that). The pliers are not cheap, however, but I use them for many different
>things around the house or when working on my cars. Here's a link to show
>what they look like & a typical price:
>http://www.bakerprecision.com/tools1.htm
>You can find a pair at a pilot/aircraft mechanic tool store near most
>airports (or even easier online). Note: I just found a site where they are
>only about $25:
>http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/56-LP-SPLI
>Not sure about the quality of these however. Seems that I paid about $75 for
>mine & they have lasted me 15 yrs now of constant use.
>
>Once the wire is twisted & attached to another bolt or hole, you give it
>another set of twists about 3/4" to 1" long & then cut the excess wire off.
>This "tail" is then bent inward to protect against sharp edges of the wire.
>(Best if you can do this in an area the bird can't see or get to easily.)
>
>Safety wiring takes a bit of practice however. Here's a link to show what it
>looks like when it's done properly:
>http://www.geocities.com/robm351/pantera/index-24.html
>You can get more info on how it's done by doing a Google search or buying an
>aircraft mechanic's handbook on practices & procedures (also available at
>any pilot or mech. tool store).
>
>Drawbacks of both methods (cotter pins & safety wire): sharp edges; beak may
>still be strong enough to break or remove both. Note: To increase strength
>of twisted wire, you can double or triple it up, but then it gets to look a
>little unsightly.
>
>If these methods don't seem to work with your bird, and locknuts or lock
>tite don't do the trick either, the only thing I can suggest is spend the
>money & get a stronger cage with welded joints, as opposed to bolts.
>
>John
>
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